ALABAMA TRAILS



WATERLOO

Lauderdale County AL

It would be difficult to name a place in North Alabama that is richer in Native American history than the area around Waterloo. Archaeological surveys of the Pickwick basin, made in the late 1930*s, indicate that this place must have been a metropolis for peoples during the Mississippian and the earlier Woodland Periods. Evidence of the presence of the Copena Culture was also found. This prime river site was sought after by eager land speculators of the early 1800's. One of the first to become interested in Waterloo was Dr. Edward Gabriel Bumpass, physician, postmaster, author, and investor. It is said that he had his eye on this place as early as 1807.90 It is fitting and proper for Gabriel Bumpass to be called the father of Waterloo. It was under his guidance that the Articles of Agreement to establish the town was signed at Pulaski, Tennessee, in March, 1819. He became one of Waterloo's first citizens. Beautiful Bumpass Creek bears his name.

Dr. Bumpass was born in Person County, North Carolina, about the year 1770. He and his brother, James, also a physician, headed a colony of fifty or more immigrants out of South Carolina. These people became the first settlers of Giles County, Tennessee, although they were delayed about a year in Nashville waiting for the Indians to cede their lands in that part of the state. Finally, around 1810, they began the task of cutting a road through the wilderness. This highway from Columbia to Pulaski became known as the Bumpass Trail.

When the Huntsville Land Office opened in 1818, Dr. Bumpass began investing in hundreds of acres of land in Lauderdale County. He was a large man weighing more than 300 pounds, but quite agile. He was also rather eccentric. Many stories have been told about his long life at Waterloo. One was about a man caught stealing corn from the Doctor's cribs. Upon learning that the poor man and his family were without food, Dr. Bumpass invited him to a hearty breakfast, filled his sack with grain, and told him to come back at any time to get more. During his advanced years he lived with his daughter, Camilla, and her husband, Captain John Till. It was said that every morning after breakfast, he could be seen sitting on the porch of the town's hotel reading one of his many books until time to walk back home for supper. Bumpass was one of the leaders in the early Republican Church near Florence - a forerunner of the historic Stony Point Church of Christ. He died sometime after 1870, and was buried in the Witherspoon Cemetery located near the confluence of Bumpass and Second Creeks. In 1937, the Tennessee Valley Authority relocated his grave to the Richardson Cemetery so as to make way for the backwaters behind Pickwick Dam. One of his daughters. Elvira, was married to William Witherspoon, a brother to Major James Witherspoon.

Another daughter, Martha, was married to Ross Houston, brother to George S. Houston, Alabama's 25lh Governor. One son, Robert Weakley Bumpass, was a state senator in Tennessee. The other founders of Waterloo were Tyree Rodes, Maximilian H. Buchanan, German Lester, and John McCracken, all of Giles County, Tennessee. There were fifty-one original shareholders, including Alexander McDonald, John Webb, Thomas B. Haynes, Micajah Ellis, and Charles Parker. There were 100 shares of two acres each; fifty of these were allotted to Dr. Bumpass. Each original share was to be divided, making a total of 400 shares. Bumpass employed Bib Cooperman as the town surveyor. The total land sales in 1819 amounted to $9,525.50. The background for the naming of the town has been lost in the archives of time. Some have pointed out that it was established about four years following the famous Battle of Waterloo in Belgium and, probably, this was the source of its name. A romantic notion is that Waterloo's founding fathers may have been influenced by the mighty river at its door, as well as the nearby scenic creeks, streams, and springs, as a poetic meaning for the name of Waterloo. Actually, the town was first laid out in the lowland at the riverbank, a site which is now under the backwaters of Pickwick Dam. In the beginning Waterloo was referred to as "The Landing." It was incorporated in 1832, making it among the oldest towns in Alabama to establish its legal entity.

Because of its early location alongside the river, Waterloo was threatened by floods almost every spring season. A big one came in 1847. Thirty-five houses as well as warehouses and boats were either swept away or destroyed. Most of the families and businesses moved to where the present town is, although it was known then as the plateau. Yet, a few determined souls remained at the old site. For the next twenty years there were two sections of town - the old one near the river and the new town on the plateau above the river. The next big flood hit in 1867 at which time all that remained in the old town was washed away. The choice lots on the plateau were owned by Dr. Bumpass who was then nearing his eightieth birthday. These prime pieces of property on today's Main Street were purchased by James Humphrey. Elijah Chandler, and Major Witherspoon. It was thirty years later - March, 1897 - when the worst of all previously recorded floods swept over the Tennessee Valley. At this time the high water mark exceeded the 1867 disaster at Waterloo by some twenty inches. Fortunately, its people by then had moved to higher ground.

One source says that although land was granted to the trustees of the town in 1819. the first settlers did not arrive until 1824.91 Another reference states that John Webb and Jack Briscoe arrived around 1816. and were followed by Dr. Bumpass. and James and William Witherspoon. A little later two men, Hussey and Limerick, settled here, although not much is known about them.92 The former is believed to have been George Hussey. native of North Carolina, who later moved to Green Hill. A shoemaker by trade, he was born in 1805. Yet another source indicates that by 1832 there was little if any development of the town proper. In that year a boatman described it as "a town without houses at the foot of the Muscle Shoals.

Major James H. Witherspoon was said to have established the first merchandise business here in 1824. A native of North Carolina, Witherspoon from the beginning was the leading merchant in Waterloo. Soon he was boasting a merchant house made of bricks which were molded by slaves from the red clay. He built a cotton gin, gristmill, and saw mill on Second Creek. Witherspoon was also a Methodist minister who was credited with organizing the church in Waterloo which is one of the earliest Methodist congregations in the county. Witherspoon's home was a landmark for more than a hundred years. It was a large two-story log house, later covered with clapboards, with both upper and lower porches in front. Major Witherspoon was born in 1808 and died in 1883. His wife, Jane, who was born in Ireland, preceded him in death by eight years. Their graves were relocated to the Richardson Cemetery in the late 1930's.

Not long after Witherspoon built the first business, another merchant, James Johnson, formed a hotel, general store, and a cotton gin here. James R. Humphrey, son of a veteran of the Battle of New Orleans, arrived around 1829. A native of Kentucky, Humphrey lived at Huntsville before coming here. As a man of some means - and with a belief in the future of this river town - he made rather extensive investments. He purchased a line of keelboats from a man named Drum. These vessels operated between Waterloo. Eastport, Southport. Tuscumbia. and Florence. He built a hotel, storehouses, warehouses, and one of the most prosperous tan yards in the area. His son, John Thomas, and his grandsons, James B. and Thomas W.. all became leading citizens of the town.

Soon after 1850 James Lathem, native of South Carolina, became a town merchant. About the same time. Thomas T. McCorkle came with his father, James, from York District. South Carolina, and opened his combination merchandise and drug store, a business that survived in this family for more than one hundred years. The elder McCorkle was born in 1770 and died in 1866. The McCorkles were excellent record keepers. Their store ledgers and papers reveal an interesting story of life in early Waterloo. Other early settlers at Waterloo included E. T. Chandler, R. H. Rawiings, P. H. Cunningham, John Hinderman, George Waters, and Bill Petus. Among those who invested in land prior to 1825 were: Dabney Morriss, Anthony and John Winston, William Berry, Samuel White, Jesse Evans, Stephen Hightower. Richard Baugh. William S. Barton, Thomas Kirkman, James Jackson, Charles N. Baucher, Samuel Hazard, John Webb, Tyree Rodes, Eli Kerr. Phillip J. Irion, William Parker, and James Madison. Alexander Higgins was a pioneer gunsmith at Waterloo. He first settled near Green Hill about 1818, coming from the Old Ninety-Sixth District, South, Carolina. He established his blacksmith and gun shop on Bumpass Creek Road east of the town. Here he made and sold the Higgins Long Rifle. This accurate and well-made gun had been introduced by the Higgins Clan of Laurens County, South Carolina, and later manufactured in Butts County, Georgia, and Chambers County, Alabama. Josiah Higging, born in 1811 in Laurens County, South Carolina, purchased a farm near Wrights Crossroads on Brush Creek in 1836. In 1848 he began acquiring tracts of rich bottom land on the west bank of Second Creek where he built his large home which was completely encircled by a porch. Josiah was married to a full blood Chickasaw Indian named Chealty (pronounced as "Che-aul- tie") Smith on January 1. 1830. The ceremony was performed by Alexander H. McDougal near Green Hill. Many of Josiah's and Chealty's descendants continue to live around Waterloo. Michael Higging, who was also a gunsmith, moved to Mississippi. Alexander as well as Josiah. Chealty, and their daughters, Martha Jane Lindsey and Ellender Elizabeth Tune, are buried in the Simpson/Whitten Cemetery overlooking Second Creek.

Around 1850. Jesse Lucy operated a general merchandise at the foot of Lucy Hill, which later became known as Town Hill. Lucy's business included a saloon where men could drink and gamble. Joel Childress was murdered here one winter evening while playing a game of "Seven-Up." He had accused his partner of cheating.

Joseph Bishop's blacksmith shop was at the top of Lucy Hill where Richardson Cemetery is now located. There was a large distillery at Boatman Spring where both whiskey and brandy were made from com. apples, and peaches. Other merchandise houses during this period were listed as: Hargrave Barsew; Carter Madry; James Humphrey; West and Jones; and Witherspoon and Harrison. The post office at Waterloo dates back to April 1827 when Thomas Pate was appointed as its first postmaster. Sixteen months later it was moved to Barton, a community now known as Gravelly Springs. However, it was re-established at Waterloo in 1828 with Edmund F. Wills as postmaster. In the early days the mail arrived by boat. Later, a horse-drawn vehicle was dispatched from Waterloo to Florence to pick up the mail. One of the last of these carriers was Green Berry Lindsey, Senior. He would go to Florence one day and return with the mail the next. In addition to his mail delivery, Lindsey sought passengers who wished to ride to and from the county seat. His father, Sylvester B. Lindsey, preceded him in this business. His newspaper advertisements ran as follows: "Attention Travelers! During low water in the river, I will

The Haynes family was involved in both building and repairing steamboats. Weathersby Haynes, native of North Carolina where he was born in 1850, was a tar maker. Henry Harvey Haynes, a Tennessean who was born in 1822, was a cooper by trade. His wife, Nancy Turpin, was a native of Kentucky. Years later, their son. Robert Henry Haynes, cut crossttes that were shipped from Waterloo by steamboats.

Around the turn of the century, the timber industry became a big economic factor for Waterloo and the surrounding area. In 1897. within a twelve-mile radius there were seven saw and planing mills owned by A. V. Bevis, John Sheppard. Kinney Crow, R. H. Haynes, L. A. Ranson, Keel and Haynes. and Sheppard and Franklin. These mills turned out vast quantities of lumber annually for markets in St. Louis. Missouri, Evansville, Indiana, and East Florence. Crossties were big items. In 1897, their average market price amounted to $20.00 per hundred. A total of 121,550 ties were cut and shipped that year from around Waterloo.

Waterloo has been a river crossing point from early times. The first commercial ferry was established here about 1798 by Chief George Colbert. This was the original crossing of the Natchez Trace prior to being moved upriver to the present General John Coffee Bridge on the Natchez Trace Parkway. In 1832, Dr. Gabriel Bumpass was granted ferry rights which he held for many years. A newspaper advertisement in 1851 heralded the ferry at East Port, Mississippi, that crossed to Waterloo as "The nearest and best way from Middle Tennessee to North Mississippi."99 Large holding pens for cattle and hogs were located at both ends of the ferry crossing. As late as the 1920's the Methodist ministers at Waterloo used the ferry on Sundays to hold services in the Riverton Church.

An early school at Waterloo was taught by Carrie Sullivan, daughter of Dr. 0. B. Sullivan. There is an existing early document called "Article of Agreement" between this teacher and her patrons in the town "to teach a subscription school at Waterloo, Alabama" for the term of five months for the sum of $1.25 per month "for each subscribed pupil."'01 In the late 1890's, this young lady crossed the area. This unit, commanded by Captain George Robinson, was a part of Brigadier General Eli Long's Second Division which was encamped at Gravelly Springs. One historian wrote that, although Wilson had been ordered to bum Waterloo, "he succumbed to the charm of the Southern ladies and spared the town."105 Bumpass Creek Road was said to have been one of the main routes used by Confederate bushwhacker Bert Hayes.106 According to legend, Hayes was responsible for the deaths of a number of people in this area, although this has never been documented.

The advent of the Tennessee Valley Authority Act in 1933 became a mixed blessing to the people at Waterloo. They soon learned that the proposed Pickwick Dam on the Tennessee River near Savannah, Tennessee, would form a lake to cover all the rich river bottom farms in and around this area of Lauderdale County. Some of these farmers who lost their land moved to Mississippi and to other places such as Indiana. Others merely relocated to higher ground. James "Jimmy" Haynes was one of the larger planters. After Pickwick Dam was completed, he turned his porch chair around to face the front of his store so he wouldn't have to look at the lake that covered former fields of bountiful corn.107 There are a number of success stories told about young people who left Waterloo for other places. One of these involves Ezra Lee Culver who migrated to the North a good many years before there was a Tennessee Valley Authority. After establishing his own enterprise, he built a number of notable landmarks, such as the Lincoln Tunnel, Yankee Stadium, and the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel in New York, the state capitol buildings in Charleston. West Virginia, and the Florida Key bridges. Culver is a son of George Washington Culver, Junior, and his wife. Virginia Haynes Culver. She was a daughter of Robert Henry Haynes and his wife, Jane Barrier Haynes. An ancestor. John Culver, served in the Revolutionary War under General Washington. The first Culver in America arrived in 1635. Mrs. E. L. Culver donated the historic Newman House to Waterloo a few years prior to her death.

Excerpt from "A Walk Through The Past" by William Lindsey McDonald 2003

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