History of Idaho County Idaho
Idaho was not only one of the original
counties, but the largest in the territory. Since its organization it
has experienced many changes. Lemhi and Custer counties were taken from
it bodily, and it contributed generous amounts to the counties of Boise
and Washington. In 1875, this loss of territory was partly compensated
by receiving from Nez Perce a section which included the mining
districts of Elk City and Newsome Creek, and the great Camas Prairie
country, which is now its chief agricultural section. It still boasts
of being the largest county in Idaho and is exceeded in size by few in
the United States.
It occupies a central position in Idaho, its borders touching the
states of Oregon and Montana as well as seven sister counties. Surely a
subdivision so vast and central may honorably bear the name of the
mother state.
The following description is taken from a state report: "Idaho County
occupies nearly one-seventh of the whole area of the state. It embraces
7,222,400 acres, a larger extent of territory than the combined area of
Rhode Island, Delaware and Massachusetts. It is a truly royal dominion,
royal not only in territorial extent, but royal in the hidden treasures
in its hills and mountains, royal in its climatic conditions from the
dry atmosphere of its river valleys to the life-giving moisture of its
rolling prairies, from its low elevation and high temperature to its
snow-capped mountain peaks; and royal in its game preserves.
"The Salmon River, the greatest tributary of the Snake, traverses the
county from the Lemhi county line to its mouth, a distance of nearly
two hundred and twenty-five miles, with its myriads of branches, creeks
and rivulets penetrating its hill sides and lapping the snow from its
highest ridges. The North and South forks of the Clearwater in a like
manner penetrate the eastern and northeastern part of the county. The
atmosphere on these rivers is dry and warm in the summer and the
temperature rarely permits of snow in the winter, affording an ideal
climate for orchards and vines. For a narrow margin along these rivers,
irrigation is required, but water is plentiful.
"Within the boundaries and conditions roughly sketched, there are many
rich valleys, rolling prairies and hillside slopes of arable land, and
here the rainfall is sufficient and the moisture adequate to give
luxuriant life to the vegetable kingdom. The county contains the rich
and fertile Camas Prairie of the north, forty by thirty miles in
extent, and the two plateaus known as the Joseph and Dormice plains,
equally as rich and fertile.
"The area assigned to Camas Prairie contains 768,000 acres. This area,
however, includes the breaks of the Clearwater River. This river, like
all the rivers of the northern part of the state, runs its whole length
in a canyon.
"The word canyon in its popular signification here is somewhat
indefinite in meaning and apt to mislead one not acquainted with its
use, and it may not be out of place to attempt to define its use in our
western vernacular. Canyon, then, is not the river nor the channel of
the river, but the deep gulch or ravine cut by the river through the
mountains and hills in its course to lower levels, and embraces all the
surface of the earth exposed on either side of the stream up to the
table land or rim rock, and the rim rocks on either side before erosion
set in were the walls of the canyon. Where the walls of the canyon
stood perpendicular so as to prevent a passage way on either side of
the stream, it is called a box canyon; where the walls gradually and
with but little inclination merge into a plain, it is called a valley.
But between these two descriptive words—box canyon and valley—there is
a wide variety of scenery and topography and the word canyon is used to
designate the whole. In places there is barely room for a wagon road;
in other places there may be miles, even as high as fifteen or more,
between the table lands on either side. In such places there are bars
(bottom lands) which usually occur at the mouth of side streams or at
some sudden turn in the river, causing sediment to be deposited on the
opposite bank. These bars are of all sizes from a few acres up to
hundreds of acres, and are very rich and fertile. Then above these are
benches, in places as high as three or four, approaching the table land
above by steps or degrees. These benches are also rich and fertile,
especially on the north and west hillsides. These latter conditions are
called the breaks of the river.
"Now the canyon of the South fork of the Clearwater River runs the
whole length of Camas Prairie, and these breaks, of course, will
detract from the arable land designated, but the Salmon River, with its
tremendous length in the state, so far as its canyons are concerned,
are similar to those of the Clearwater, with many rich bars and
benches, and the same thing occurs on the Snake river side of the
county.
"But Idaho County is essentially a mountainous region. On the east are
the Bitterroot mountains, and the larger portion of the Salmon River
mountains are included within its borders. These mountains are in no
well defined range, but are a vast collection of irregularly scattered
peaks, overtopping a wilderness of lesser peaks, all of a rugged and
forbidding aspect. The average altitude is about six thousand feet,
though many of the peaks have an elevation nearly double that height."
Through these mountains the Salmon River has relentlessly cut its way.
Its valley is from three thousand to four thousand feet lower than the
average altitude of the mining camps in the adjacent mountains, and
consequently there is a marked difference in the climate. In the valley
snow rarely falls before February, and many years there is practically
none during the winter; while in the mining camps the snow covers the
mountain sides to a depth of from four to six feet.
The Salmon River Mountains are chiefly of a granite formation and are
supposed to belong to a comparatively recent geological period. The
canyon of the Salmon River affords excellent opportunity for geological
research, as in places its walls rise to a height of one thousand to
two thousand feet. Toward the west the country is covered by a lava
formation, the decomposition of which has formed the rich soil of Camas
Prairie.
The history of the original counties in Idaho is for the most part a
history of the early mining discoveries. Gold was found in 1860 in what
was then Shoshone County. The next year saw a great invasion into that
section, and many of the miners, instead of working the ground already
prospected, pushed on into unknown territory to find new fields.
Such a party, in September of 1861, located the gold gravels of Miller
creek, about seventy five miles south of Elk City, which was the scene
of the first mining in the region afterward to be designated as Idaho
County. A few weeks later the Florence diggings were found, and a
number of men wintered in the mountains, undergoing great hardships.
The next year saw the opening of the Warren placers, and Idaho County
was fully launched on her first mining career.
The county seat was at Florence. The population consisted of miners and
of those engaged in various lines of business dependent on mining. All
of these early towns flourished or declined just as the mining industry
in their vicinity prospered or waned. The ground near Florence was soon
exhausted and, in 1869, the county's capital was removed to Warren.
This town had for three years enjoyed a steady growth so that by 1865
it numbered 1,500 inhabitants, but by 1867 it had lost two thirds of
its population. The discovery of quartz lodes caused a revival, and it
was during this period that Warren became the county seat. But quartz
mining proved disappointing and the town dwindled to four hundred or
less. In 1872, there was influx of the Chinese to the number of twelve
hundred. They took up the claims abandoned by the white men, worked
over the gravels and then they, too, departed.
The first saw mill in Warren was built in 1868 by F. Shessler and
William Bloomer. About the same time a five stamp quartz mill was
installed by Godfrey Gamble, water power being used. A second mill was
built about five miles from Warren, but the quartz veins did not prove
as profitable as had been expected.
One of the first residents of Warren was Leo Hofen, a German, who came
to the Pacific coast in 1855. He located in Lewiston where he conducted
a general merchandising business and did assaying. In the spring of
1865 he moved to Warren, where he remained for a number of years, being
the last of the pioneers to desert the mining town. For a time he
practically had control of all business between the Fayette and Salmon
rivers.
All who entered Idaho's western border were not so blinded by gold that
other resources escaped them. Realizing the richness of the Camas
Prairie, many located there and in time a thriving agricultural
community was built up. It in turn laid claim to the county seat which,
in 1875, was established at Mount Idaho, this section, including the
Prairie and the mining district east of it, having been taken from Nez
Perce and given to Idaho county.
We quote the following from Bancroft: "The history of Mount Idaho is
the history of farming in Idaho County. Situated on North Camas
Prairie, the town was settled in 1862 by L. P. Brown, through whose
efforts it was made flourishing. Located at the foot of the mountains
on the east side of the Prairie, it became a picturesque place, with
mills, stores and good buildings. H. S. Crossdale and one Baring
resigned commissions in the British army and settled on the Prairie,
ten miles north of Mount Idaho, about 1870, where they raised sheep. A
rival to Mount Idaho was Grangeville, two miles northwest, which about
equaled it in business and population for some time." Fickle fortune!
Mount Idaho is not now even listed among the towns of Idaho County
while Grangeville is the thriving county seat.
Any estimate of the agricultural lands in this county in its present
state of progress must necessarily be approximate, and may be stated at
about three-quarters of a million acres. There are about one hundred
and fifty thousand acres of this class of land now held by patent from
the government. On the east side of the Clearwater River there is a
large number of homesteaders in the timber, building up homes much in
the same way that the Ohio and Indiana pioneers did, clearing a small
amount of ground each year and getting it in cultivation, but it is
much harder to get rid of the pine stumps than to dispose of the
hardwood roots of the eastern forests. There is compensation, however,
in being able to sell the logs instead of having to destroy them.
Generally speaking, the agricultural interests of the county are
confined to the Camas Prairie district. Prior to 1908 there were fewer
than twenty-five miles of railroad in the entire county. Even on the
Prairie the farmers raised little more than was needed for local
consumption, as there was no way of marketing their products. During
this time the chief industry was cattle, which, during the greater part
of the year, could range the hills and keep in good condition.
Over two hundred and seventy thousand acres of grazing land are now
held by patent, being by far the largest amount of land of this
character in any one county of the state. "While the number of range
cattle has materially decreased, Idaho County is still in the lead in
this line, being excelled only by Owyhee and Lemhi counties. With
better facilities for marketing, more farm products have been grown and
special attention has been turned to swine, in the production of which
this county now stands first.
We are indebted to L. M. Harris for the following facts concerning
Camas Prairie, which takes its name from the native camas, a root
highly prized by the Indians as food: "Camas Prairie, Idaho, is
situated in the northwest portion of Idaho County, its elevation being
from two thousand to thirty-two hundred feet above sea level. The crops
grown are wheat, oats, barley, corn, clover, alfalfa, timothy, potatoes
and vegetables of all varieties. Fruit grown on Camas Prairie consist
of apples, plums, prunes, cherries—sweet and sour,—pears, peaches,
nectarines and quince, together with the whole berry family.
"A conservative estimate, or rather, accurate records of several years
past, show the yield of grain on the Prairie to be as follows:
Wheat—winter—from 35 to 65 bushels per acre; wheat—spring—from 35 to 65
bushels per acre; winter barley, from 50 to 108 bushels per acre;
beardless barley, from 40 to 75 bushels per acre; blue barley, 50 to 87
bushels per acre; oats, from 40 to 90 bushels per acre. The whole of
Camas Prairie, when not planted to other crops, self seeds to timothy,
which produces from one to two and one-half tons per acre.
"At Portland, in 1905, Camas Prairie was awarded the gold medal for grains and grasses, and again in Seattle, in 1909.
"The average rainfall on Camas Prairie for the past five years has been
thirty inches per annum well distributed throughout the growing season.
There are no dashing rains to wastefully wash the soil and very little
thunder and lightning. The season of assured rainfall closes June 20 to
July 1, leaving fully three months for the proper ripening and
harvesting of grain.
"It is seldom that Camas Prairie has zero weather. The summers are very
pleasant, the extreme heat that might be oppressive in other localities
being" modified by the gentle, ever stirring breeze from the
neighboring mountains. This assertion finds proof in the fact that
during the past five years the warmest day recorded was 98 degrees in
the shade.
"Numerous springs of pure, cold water over the Prairie, and the several
mountain streams which pass through the agricultural sections on their
way to the Clearwater and Salmon Rivers, furnish an abundance of the
finest water obtainable. Wells are from twenty to one hundred and fifty
feet in depth, depending upon the locality in which they are dug. The
water of Idaho County is a natural resource of which the residents have
boasted for ages, and as long as the bounteous rains come steadily in
the spring time and the crystallized snow melts in the mountains, their
boasts will go begging for doubt or contradiction.
"Stock raising ranks among the principal industries of the county. The
time was when the cattleman was king, having large herds of cattle
maintained in the summer and fall on the bunch grass ranges on the
highlands and breaks of the Salmon and Clearwater Rivers and fed
throughout the winter months on grain and hay grown on the Prairie.
Conditions are different now but not less profitable. Practically every
farmer has a number of well bred cattle, using thoroughbred bulls and
thereby bettering the quality of his herds. As a resultant of these
methods, stock raising has been extended and elevated, and a great many
splendid individual herds may be seen over the Prairie.
"Hogs are here—as in other countries where they thrive—a big factor in
the livestock industry. They thrive on the native grasses in summer and
will feed on the waste in harvesting and threshing from the wheat and
barley fields, acquiring in this manner the amount of feed and exercise
necessary for the greatest possible growth.
"It is generally admitted that corn ensilage is one of the best, if not
the very best, feed for dairy cows. In extensive corn growing states
such as Iowa, Illinois, Kansas and Nebraska, corn stalks produce too
many ears, resulting in a fattening feed instead of a milk producing
feed. Here the ensilage grows to perfection, this country not being an
ideal corn producing country, so far as ears and bushels of corn are
concerned. This makes it the acme of corn ensilage production.
"In the past this country has been farmed to wheat, single farmers
having as much as five hundred to eight hundred acres. To grow more
wheat, to buy more land to grow more wheat seemed to be the desire of
the people living here. Even today we have too many large land owners
for the best good of our country. Some of these large tracts are for
sale in a body. If the large holdings could be cut into forty to one
hundred acre farms, the country would be in a better condition. People,
homes, families and school houses are what Camas Prairie needs not the
speculator nor the large land owner. The territory served by the
railroad, thirty-five miles in length, lying between the railway and
the foot hills of the mountains on one side and comprising, on the
other side, some of the best land for general farming in this part of
the country, is particularly well adapted for what is generally
described as "the 'small farmer." The large farmer, with abundance of
land and capital, has not troubled himself about the minor branches of
farming, selling his grain and hogs in large lots and receiving big
checks for them. But the man of limited means must look after, and pay
attention to, all the smaller items that go to make up a comfortable
living and render a crop failure unknown to him.
“There are many reasons why this territory, lying close to
transportation as it does, is very suitable for the purposes of the
small farmer. It is admitted that dairying is the backbone of success
in mixed farming and the community in which that industry is
intelligently carried on, in combination with hogs, poultry and small
fruit, has more revenue per head of population, or per acre, than one
employing any other style of farming, except a district especially
adapted for high-class fruit or truck gardens.
"Camas Prairie is well suited for this kind of farming. Grasses and
clovers grow abundantly on well prepared soil, and land in good grass
in this district is able to carry twice the amount of stock that can be
carried in a lower and drier altitude. Alfalfa grows well, either as
mixture with clover and grasses for pasture, or for hay, and lasts
several years. All the fodder crops suitable for a temperate climate do
well here. Corn will readily produce from ten to twelve tons of feed to
the acre for hogs or cattle, either in green state or fodder, or for
ensilage. It is an indisputable fact that a good crop of green corn
will feed more head of stock for a given time than any other forage.
Oats and peas, sown together, produce the next highest amount of feed.
Timothy is naturalized and is very dependable. Timothy hay from Camas
Prairie has made the highest price on the Seattle market. Timothy seed
from this district is in great demand and last year gave very high
returns per acre, yielding as much as six hundred pounds per acre and
selling for ten and one-half cents per pound.
"Another reason for the suitability of this country for mixed farming
is the proportion of clay in the soil and the clay sub-soil. This
accounts for the freedom from drought. When thoroughly cultivated the
moisture is conserved, the grasses and fodder for that reason
possessing very high feeding qualities and growing young animals with
abundance of bone and muscle and meat of the finest flavor.
"Stock raising and dairying are becoming important industries here and
many of the farmers do not pretend to market any of their grain, but
feed it all to the livestock kept on their farms. Hogs, especially, do
well and weigh over two hundred pounds when less than a year old. Most
of their growth costs the farmer little, as they run at large on the
farm and are fed but a few weeks before ready for market. They are
known locally as '"mortgage lifters" and have accomplished wonders in
placing the farmers of this county in their present affluent
circumstances.
"Dairying is a later thing and is only getting started, although the
two cream stations ship large amounts of cream daily to Lewiston and
Spokane.
"This is a country rich is possibilities and undeveloped resources and
it offers great attractions to the industrious husbandman and the
careful investor. There is still plenty of room here for all who care
to live in one of the best and most attractive portions of the globe,
and the newcomer will be greeted with a true western welcome whenever
he decides to cast his lot in our midst.
"The Joseph and Domicq plains are across the Salmon River from Camas
Prairie and, while isolated in a way, grow immense crops of grain which
is fed to hogs, the latter being driven to the railroad to market."
A record made of the actual production of all cultivated lands in the
various counties for one year shows that Idaho County produced an
average of thirty-three bushels of wheat and thirty-eight bushels of
barley to the acre, no other county excelling in these two products.
Oats yielded forty-six bushels, corn thirty bushels and potatoes one
hundred and thirty nine bushels per acre.
The last census gave the entire population of this immense county as
less than 12,500. As yet but two railroads enter Idaho county, with a
total length of less than seventy-five miles. Yet, with this population
and lack of transportation, the eleven banks of the county show
aggregate deposits of more than a million and a half dollars.
Grangeville, the county seat, is the terminus of the branch railroad
from Lewiston. Stites, a station to the northeast, is the end of the
other railroad in the county, this line extending up the south fork of
the Clearwater to the point named. Grangeville receives special mention
in a following chapter.
Cottonwood is the commercial center of the western part of the Prairie.
It is also on the railroad and has a population of 750. More grain is
shipped from this town than from any other in the county, and it also
claims the distinction of excelling any other producing station west of
the Rocky Mountains in the shipment of hogs.
White Bird is the principal town of the Salmon River country in the
southwest part of the county, which is the great range section. Kooskia
is a thriving village on the railroad which terminates at Stites.
Of the mining camps, Elk City is probably the best known. Here was the
scene of one of the early gold discoveries, and some of the best quartz
ledges so far opened are near this town. It is also the center of a
most excellent range, the cattle fattened here commanding the highest
market prices.
The forests are a notable feature of this county. Much of the southern
portion is well wooded, but the principal timber tracts of commercial
value are found in the northwest part of Camas Prairie and in the
eastern and northeastern sections of the county. Here are vast areas of
the finest white and yellow pine, red and white fir, cedar and
tamarack. Many small saw mills have manufactured lumber for local use,
and in recent years sections within hauling distance of the railroads
have shipped their product to outside points, but this industry is
still in its swaddling clothes.
The United States has control of 3,107,760 acres of this timber,
included in the Challis, Clearwater, Idaho, Payette and Salmon national
forests.
It is quite generally believed that the great future of Idaho County
lies in its mineral resources. Quartz veins were discovered in the
'60s, but, because of the remoteness of the region, nothing but high
grade ores can be made to yield a profit.
Quartz ledges were opened near the Warren placer grounds, and several
mines were operated but not with marked success. The Rescue was the
most productive, although its ore occurred in chimneys. This property
is credited with an output amounting to $90,000. It is estimated that
during the first fifteen years the ore taken from all the lodes in the
Warren district did not exceed four thousand tons.
Several quartz districts have in the succeeding years been prospected,
with good results. Properties have been developed and mills operated
with fair returns. But this region cannot come to its own in mining
until it is afforded adequate means of transportation. Piuffalo Hump is
one of the well known quartz districts. Some of the best veins so far
opened are in the vicinity of Elk City. This country is credited with
the production of $10,000,000 of placer gold, and a like amount is said
to have been taken out of the Warren diggings. The source of placer
gold is usually traced to nearby quartz veins, which, through
disintegrations, have liberated their metal content. More often than
not therefore, a district furnishes both classes of mineral claims.
About 1901 and 1902 there was much talk of the Thunder Mountain
district, in the southeastern part of Idaho County. It was advertised
from the Atlantic' to the Pacific and a stampede ensued, despite the
fact that it was one hundred and fifty miles from any railroad, and
eighty to ninety miles from the nearest wagon roads. To reach this
region, it was necessary to walk or ride horseback through a country
crossed with mountain ranges running in all directions, with no road or
trail of any kind. But in the excitement, these obstacles were
overcome. Trails that would permit pack animals to pass were first
surveyed and constructed, and the building of wagon roads was begun,
but before they had reached within sixty miles of the camp a twenty
stamp mill had been taken in and was in operation. This boom was
ill-advised and short-lived. There are in this district immense bodies
of low grade ore, but the values are not high enough to cope with the
excessive expenses incident to operation. The regions mentioned, as
well as Big Creek, Marshall Lake, Resort and other districts, are high
mineralized. In the western part of the county there are copper
deposits. In the old placer diggings there are still large acres of
gold-bearing ground that would pay splendid profits if dredging
machinery were installed.
Idaho County is a domain of golden promise and alluring possibilities.
Now it is the sportsman's paradise. Water fowls are near its lakes,
fish abound in the mountain streams, while in the mountains are found
the brown, black and grizzly bear, the deer and the elk. When the smoke
of the railway engine trails through the valleys, when the veins of
quartz are yielding their golden content, when the fertile bottoms
throughout the mountains are producing the fruits, vegetables, grains
and live stock to sustain the numerous mining camps, then indeed will
Idaho county's dream of prosperity and greatness be fully realized.
[HISTORY OF IDAHO VOLUME I; BY HIRAM
T. FRENCH, M. S.; Publ. 1914; Transcribed and submitted to Genealogy
Trails by Andrea Stawski Pack.]
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