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Pioneer history of Wise County

Pioneer history of Wise County : from red men to railroads, twenty years of intrepid

history Decatur, Tex.: The Association, 1907
[Transcribed by K. Torp]
Pages 25 - 74
 

CHAPTER II - Cactus Hill
The late Col. R. M. Collins, an eyewitness to the settlement of Wise County has written: " Amongst the advancing squadrons of American civilization, as a rule, the first to get on the outside and blaze the way is the man with his herds and flocks; then comes the man with the hoe, followed by the Methodist circuit rider, and next to him is the politician." From thence on the lamented Wise County editor described an early political incident in which there was much of a serious and humorous nature. We pause to dwell on that phrase which emphasizes the man with the flocks and herds as the one who " blazes the way for the advancing squadrons of civilization." Referred to Wise County, the statement is substantially confirmed in the example of Col. W. H. Hunt, who, as one of the very first settlers to seek out a location here, brought along his flocks and herds to pasture on the free and luxuriant grasses. Col. Hunt found Western Wise County better suited to his purpose, and there, on the banks of Hunt's Creek he established a most interesting and picturesque home and ranch quarters, the descriptive details of which, it is hoped, will provide an entertaining chapter of this book. The following remarks will be devoted to a description of Cactus Hill itself, with character sketches of Col. Hunt and members of his family reserved for another place.

The locality was first occupied by Col. Hunt and family in 1855 but some time prior to that date he had brought hither a large number of cattle and sheep, and left them in care of cowboys in his service. Hunt's Creek is a tributary of the West Fork of the Trinity River and the Cactus Hill home was established on it in the vicinity of the point where the Decatur and Jacksboro road finds a crossing. The house stood to the right of the road, facing south, on a rising prominence which stands out above both the creek and the road, and gives it an unobstructed view of the country for miles around.

The writer has been enabled to obtain from Mrs. D. J. Galbraith, of Honey Grove, and Mrs. Kate Hunt Craddock, of Terrell, a daughter of Colonel.Hunt, certain comprehensive sketches which detail the life and surroundings of this most genuinely picturesque and romantic feature of early Wise County life; in fact, more connected information has been vouchsafed on this point than attaches to any other phase of the historical matter under consideration. Mesdames Craddock and Galbraith's contributions supplemented by those of living pioneers forms the basis of the description of Cactus Hill.

Possibly the reader is asking at the outset for a brief reference to the part Colonel Hunt played in the history of the period in question, and also certain allusions to the prominences of his character. He was a man gifted with a genius for leadership; he was broad and charitable in his views; he was hospitable and sympathetic and endowed with unusual intelligence; a New Yorker by birth and a city-bred man, he was equipped to introduce direction and system into his 'personal affairs and the affairs of others, which he frequently shouldered. His mission in the early history of the county was one of counsel and guidance; he provided that broad and rugged leadership so essential to all the local interests in their undeveloped and formative state. He is revered for his hospitable ways at Cactus Hill and remembered for the many benefactions which he conferred on the people.

Alluding again to Cactus Hill, it may be said that Mrs. Galbraith visited the scene in the year of 1855, having ridden out on horseback from Bonham in company with Colonel Tom Bean, the noted Texan, and Miss Belle Cordell, Mrs. Hunt's sister. Much of Mrs. Galbraith's description is embodied in these statements. She thus indicates the surroundings:
"We could stand on Cactus Hill and look for miles in every direction and "see the most beautiful scenery, great high hills covered with small live-oak trees and cactus of every variety; the tall mesquite grass thrived in luxuriance, and intermingled with all these lovely decorations were great white stones and countless wild flowers; there was not a house in sight of Colonel Hunt's."

In this wild and rugged region sat Cactus Hill, a refined and cultivated home. The house was a large log structure with two rooms and a hall, with a porch in front and rock-floored kitchen and dining room in the rear. The lumber used in the flooring and door and window frames was brought by ox-teams from Jefferson, in eastern Texas, by James Proctor, and the glass panes of the windows were the first introduced into the county.

The prevailing evidences of culture and taste existed in the well-chosen library, in which were to be found the poetical works of Byron, Tennyson, Milton and Shakespeare, the latter being Colonel Hunt's favorite author. A spindle-legged me-lodeon brought from New York by way of New Orleans to Cactus Hill, was the first instrument of the kind in the country. A tuner often rode out from McKinney to put the melodeon in order. Once in the dining room, the guests found themselves served from the finest of china, which existed in profusion.

In the landlord's big desk, which occupied one corner of the spacious west room, was kept the post office of the neighborhood, to which the neighbors came to receive and send mail. A short distance from the house a large basement was built under a two-roomed structure used for a granary and smoke-house, in which the dairy products were kept cool and fresh. Here also was kept a constant store of luxuries and supplies from the distant markets. Still further to the rear was a large blacksmith shop plentifully equipped with tools to which the neighbors repaired for blacksmithing.

The corral was. one of the best in the country, made of huge logs tightly pinioned with bois d'arc pegs and entered through a massive swinging gate. The fences were ten feet high on three sides, the fourth being formed by a succession of barns and stables. A large "mount" of cow ponies was always on hand, besides which, pride was taken in the ownership of a goodly number of riding and carriage horses.

Besides the many cattle, a large flock of sheep was kept constantly recruited to number 3,500 on range about the country, the annual wool clip from which was transported in large caravans to Jefferson and sold, the caravans returning laden with supplies for the ranch, and also at times bringing back goods and wares for Howell and Allen's store, which lay on the route. One of the picturesque sights around Cactus Hill was the band of cow-boys in the employment of Colonel Hunt and other ranchmen of the section. No cattleman or wayfarer in that region ever found himself independent of the hospitality of this household.

Col. and Mrs. Hunt were both characteristically hospitable, social and charitable. The big open hallway at Cactus Hill was indicative of their open-hearted ways. Open house was kept in those days, and a chance guest stayed a day, a night, a week, as it pleased him. Everybody who came their way got the " glad hand " on the doorstep, be he friend or stranger. Mrs. Hunt was personally very attractive and entertaining, and "her many efforts to bring happiness to her guests are facts of tradition. The delicacies and luxuries of her stores were always at the command of the sick and needy, and the volumes of the library were never too precious to be circulated for general reading in the community.

Out of his own resources Col. Hunt built a schoolhouse for the use of his neighbor's children, and herein, though not a churchman, he organized and taught a Sunday school, the first in that part of the county. He also distributed bibles and testaments freely among the people, and even among the Indian tribes. It may be said that he always treated the Indians kindly, which won for him their friendship and esteem and eventuated in their calling him the "White Father."

The old settlers recall with pleasure the happy social life which prevailed at Cactus Hill during its prime days. The celebrated wedding of Miss Belle Cordell, is one of the best remembered events of the time." From Mrs. Galbraith we learn also that the Decatur lawyers had a habit of riding out to the place to spend the days in excursions about the country, and the evenings in backgammon, euchre and other games.

Meagerness of space allotment compels the ending of allusions to Cactus Hill at this point. Due expression must be given, however, to the esteem in which Col. and Mrs. Hunt were held .by the frontier compatriots, who looked upon them as noble, generous characters, and as cheering and stimulating personalities of a rather sombrous hour. The influence of their beneficent lives has been transported to the present time.

Of Cactus Hill, built in the wilds of nature's woods and prairies, it is appropriate to say that its appealing environment generated the genius of poetry in the soul of one who went forth to sing sweetly of nature and solitude and of the strength and pathos of these. Reference is made to Mrs. Belle Hunt Short-ridge, the gifted daughter of Col. and Mrs. Hunt, the first born white child of Western Wise County, who in mature years attained wide prominence as a poetess of unusual grace and power.

The poem "Texas" reproduced in the first pages of this volume is from her pen, and a photograph and sketch of her life appears elsewhere.

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