Capitals and Capitols in Early Wisconsin
by Stanley H. Cravens
Page 4
From: Wisconsin Blue Book 1983 - 1984
Note: some pictures are from the Wisconsin State Historical Society
Fire!
The Fire Begins
Late on the evening of February 26, 1904, the lights in the
Capitol dimmed, then went out, as they did every night between 10:00
and 11:00 p.m. when the generator in the basement which produced the
building's electricity was shut down for the night. The only
illumination remaining in the Capitol until daybreak would be two gas
jets on the building’s second floor - one in the Assembly Post Office
in the west wing and the other in a room across from the Grand Army of
the Republic's Museum in the south wing. These lights were intended to
be used by the two night watchmen when they were not occupied
performing one of their two nightly "grand rounds", which took them to
all parts of the Capitol, including the attics over the Senate and
Assembly Chambers, where a series of pipes with open nozzles were laid
so that the rooms could be flooded in a matter of minutes if the danger
of fire threatened. In spite of the fact that the rationale for
replacing "Doty's Washbowl" with this structure was to provide a
fireproof capitol and that this intention was explicitly referred to in
the 1857 law authorizing its construction, several small fires had
occurred throughout the years. During Governor Scofield's
administration over $20,000 had been appropriated to install the
sprinkling systems above the chambers, four standpipes with hoses
within the building, and complete "circuit" of ten-inch water mains
around the Capitol with eight hydrants in the park and a connection
with the city water system in case the state's supply, held in tanks on
top of the university's Main Hall, should prove insufficient. With
these and other precautions in place, Wisconsin's Capitol had one of
the most advanced firefighting systems of the day. Nevertheless, a
principal part of the duties of the night watchmen on their "grand
round" was to check all the fireplaces and stoves in the building to
insure that embers were extinguished.
During one these grand rounds night watchman Nat Cramton smelled
smoke shortly after 2:00 a.m. He immediately went upstairs to his
second floor post in the west wing, following the odor. Arriving at the
Assembly Post Office, Cramton found the recently varnished ceiling
above the gaslight ablaze. He attempted to put the fire out by throwing
a pail of water up on it, but the blaze had already progressed beyond
such efforts. While the other night watchman, a Mr. Chase, unrolled a
hose from the nearest standpipe, Cramton telephoned Madison's Central
Fire Station, alerting the main company, which raced to the state
house. Meanwhile, Chase had found that there was almost no water
pressure, although he found the connection, hose and nozzle in good
working order. Unknown to Cramton and Chase, an engineer at the
university had drained the tanks on Main Hall in the course of cleaning
a boiler. The Madison firefighters, mostly volunteers, arrived and for
a time apparently gained the upper hand, but the fire spread above the
ceiling and broke out again. Madison's Fire Company No. 2 was called to
the Capitol and attached hoses to the state mains within the park, only
to make the same unpleasant discovery that Chase had minutes before.
The Blaze Spreads
Although the valve to switch from the state supply to city water
was in the park, well known to the night watchmen, it had inexplicably
not yet been turned. Soon the blaze spread further and, more
mysteriously, the valve next to the Adjutant General's office, which
would have flooded the Assembly Chamber, also went unopened. By the
time the water supply was switched, the fire was clearly out of control
lighting up the frigid night sky.
One of the first Madisonians to awake to the sight was 15
year-old Joseph Livermore, who had the presence of mind to use his
vest-pocket Kodak to take a most spectacular, if not the only, night
photograph of the Capitol fire. Livermore later made copies of the
photograph to sell for 10 cents apiece to earn enough money to purchase
a bicycle; his father, however, felt the price too exorbitant and made
Joseph reduce the price to 5 cents. One of Livermore's customers was a
postcard printer, who ran off and sold hundreds of the postcards,
without sharing any of the profits with the boy.
By about 4:30 a.m., it was clear that the Madison firefighters
were overmatched, and Governor Robert M. La Follette was awakened with
a request to call other communities for help. Both Milwaukee and
Janesville were telegraphed and both responded by loading equipment and
men on trains and dispatching them to the Capital. When the call for
help reached Milwaukee, Engine No. 518, with Henry "Sky" Johnson at the
throttle and Frank Backus stoking, was just pulling in from Madison.
Railroad officials rushed to Johnson and asked how long it would take
to make the return trip with the desperately needed equipment and men.
The railroader replied that he could cover the 96 miles in 96 minutes
if "the locomotive fireman holds out". Two pumpers and two hose carts
were loaded onto flat cars and the firefighters were crowded into the
caboose, and the tracks between Milwaukee and Madison were cleared.
Backus "held out" and Johnson, true to his word, arrived in Madison
slightly more that an hour and a half after leaving Milwaukee.
Unfortunately, the subzero weather had frozen the water in the pumper
and the equipment had to be thawed before the Milwaukeeans could join
the battle against the fire.
Meanwhile, La Follette arrived to direct fire-fighting efforts,
now augmented by volunteers composed of downtown Madison residents and
about 200 university students. At the same time, the Governor organized
efforts to save important state documents and furniture, personally
entering the burning building to rescue papers again and again until
Dr. Cornelius Harper forced the water-soaked Progressive to return
home. After changing clothes, however, "Fighting Bob" returned to the
state house.
By 5:00 a.m., according to the Wisconsin State Journal, the west
wing, which contained the Assembly Chamber, "looked like one gigantic
flame". Shortly afterward, the fire reached the magazine in the
commissary department, setting off 17 rounds of powder as well as
innumerable rifle cartridges, undoubtedly hampering fire fighting
efforts. University students continued to arrive to aid in the rescue
and fire-fighting efforts. Because of thick smoke filling the building,
they were unable to use the stairways and several ladders were secured
and raised to the windows in the north wing, which contained the State
Law Library. Once inside, they began throwing volumes out the windows
to snow banks below; others below began stacking the books haphazardly
until State Supreme Court Justice R. D. Marshall arrived and organized
the students into lines to pass the books hand-to-hand to nearby stores
and later, to waiting wagons. According to Solon J. Buck (who later
became archivist of the United States), then a senior attending the
University of Wisconsin, this effort grew to five to six hundred people
"and it began to get too crowded to work".
The fire raged on, involving all of the west and east wings, the
rotunda and the south wing above the ground floor. The north wing was
saved by the efforts of Madison volunteer Assistant Fire Chief, Jay H.
Snell, several other firemen and others, including varsity football
player, Arne Lerum. Almost as a counterpoint to all of the individual
acts of selflessness, there were several reports of looting from the
burning building. One person recalled seeing students running down
State Street with arms laden with anything of value that could be
carried, including typewriters. (The problem outlasted the fire:
authorities were forced to erect a high board fence around the ruins to
keep scavengers and looters out.) Finally, around 10:00 a.m., the fury
of the fire began to subside. The armies of volunteers began to give
way to thousands of spectators, causing a massive traffic jam. People
from surrounding towns came to Madison to view the smoldering ruins,
then attended a ski tournament on nearby Bascom Hill.
Aftermath
By 10:00 p.m., almost 20 hours after Nat Cramton first
discovered the ceiling of the Assembly Post Office burning, the fire
was finally out. Both Assembly and Senate Chambers were utterly and
completely destroyed; the offices of the State Treasurer and the
Secretary of the State suffered extensive damage as did those of the
Free Library Commission and the Grand Army of the Republic. The Library
Commission lost all of its records, a number of expensive books and
several traveling libraries; the GAR lost scrapbooks, medals,
photographs, banners and other relics of Wisconsin’s participation in
the Civil and Spanish-American Wars. But the most heartfelt loss was
that of the remains of "Old Abe", the famed mascot of Wisconsin's
Eighth Regiment. Fortunately the Civil War battle flags were saved
early in the morning.
POSTSCRIPT
A New Capitol Arises From the Ashes
While the ashes cooled, state officials pondered their
situation. The previous year, the Legislature had created a Capitol
Improvement Commission to explore ways of further expanding the
sandstone building. A few days after the fire, the commission, composed
of Governor La Follette, State Supreme Justices John B. Winslow and R.
D. Marshall, and four others, met and radically revised their program
for the competition between architects for the task of expanding and
renovating the Capitol. This entailed broadening a simple expansion
project, costing perhaps a few hundred thousand dollars, to a major
work of restoration and rebuilding comprising at least two million. At
the same time, the state faced the consequences of an enormously
ill-timed economy move. In 1903, the Legislature, in the interest of
saving money, had enacted a measure allowing the state to insure itself
against casualty loss, and the privately underwritten policy on the
Capitol had been allowed to lapse in late 1903 in favor of the new
State Insurance Fund, which, at the time of the fire, had accrued only
$6,000. The loss incurred by the fire was estimated to be between
$800,000 and one million. The radical revamping of the commission's
program and the extra expense it would entail, combined with the
enormous casualty loss, would not be faced squarely by the legislators
until the next year.
In the meantime, the commission continued the process of
advertising for and selecting competitive bids from architects. Cass
Gilbert, designer of the just completed Minnesota State Capitol and
future architect of West Virginia's and Arkansas' State Capitols, was
chosen from a handful of entries. Gilbert's reign as architect of
Wisconsin's State Capitol was short-lived, however, for in 1905 the
Legislature empowered a new commission, the Capitol Building
Commission, to undertake to build an entirely new building after
holding a new architectural competition. The winner of this
competition, juried by Professor Allan Conover and Chicago architect
Daniel Burnham, was the prestigious New York firm of George B. Post and
Sons, designers of the New York Stock Exchange. Although George Post,
then 72, would not live to see the current Wisconsin State Capitol
finished some 12 years later, there is little question that this was
his most magnificent creation and the crowning achievement of an
illustrious career.
Slowly, over the years 1906 to 1917, the old Wisconsin State
Capitol was dismantled and scattered, although many attempts, several
of them successful, were made to salvage portions of the Prairie du
Chien stone and cast-iron structure. The most noble, albeit futile,
attempt was undertaken at the behest of the Legislature. In 1909, a law
was enacted directing the Capitol Building Commission to remove the
cast iron dome in such a way that it could be reassembled on Main Hall
at the University of Wisconsin. Unfortunately, it was not determined
until much later that the weight of the dome was too great for the
intended structure to bear, and the law was repealed in 1915, the year
before the existing Main Hall dome was destroyed by fire.
In July 1917, the Capitol Building Commission formally went out
of existence after 11 years, announcing that the new Wisconsin State
Capitol was complete at an accumulated cost of almost $7.25 million,
including the cost of temporarily housing several state government
agencies in private office buildings, renovating sections of the old
capitol for continued use during the construction period and building a
heating and power plant (still in operation today). At the time,
however, the announcement of the final completion of such a monumental
structure made small ripples in the newspapers compared with the tidal
wave caused by World War I; indeed, a formal dedication of the building
would be repeatedly delayed until July 7, 1965.
It is unfortunate that the day was not more well marked - in
spite of America's preoccupation with the War to End All Wars. After
five attempts, the people of the State of Wisconsin had finally adorned
their state with the Capitol they had always wanted. Indeed, the white
granite, classical-revival building has already outlasted all four of
its predecessors combined.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
Primary Sources:
1. Archives of the State Historical Society of Wisconsin.
2. (Strong, Moses), "Report of the United States Attorney for the
Territory of Wisconsin in Relation to the Title to the Ground on which
the Capitol Stands", Madison, 1839.
3. Wisconsin Legislative Journals (various years).
4. Wisconsin Secretary of State, Blue Book. 1872, 1882.
5. Wisconsin Senate, "Majority and Minority Reports of the Committee on
State Affairs relating to the Capitol Extension", Madison, 1858.
Newspapers:
Arcadia Republican and Leader; Ashland Press; Belmont Gazette;
Capital Times (Madison); Chippewa Herald (Chippewa Falls); Dubuque
Visitor; Dunn County News (Menomonie); Lake Geneva Herald; Lincoln
County Advocate (Merrill); Lodi Valley News; Manitowoc Tribune;
Milwaukee Journal; Saturday Reporter (Fond du Lac); State Gazette
(Green Bay); State Register (Portage); Superior Inter-Ocean; Waukesha
Freeman; Waupaca Post; Whitewater Register; Wisconsin State Journal
(Madison).
Books:
1. Clark, James L., Henry Dodge: Frontiersman, Madison, 1957.
2. Duckett, Kenneth W., Frontiersman of Fortune: Moses M. Strong of Mineral Point, Madison, 1955.
3. Durrie, Daniel S., A History of Madison, The Capitol of Wisconsin;
Including the Four Lake Country to July 1874, Madison, 1874.
4. Hitchcock, Henry R. and William R. Seale, Temples of Democracy: The State Capitols of the U.S.A., New York, 1976.
5. Keyes, Elisha W. (Editor), History of Dane County, Madison, 1906.
6. Mollenhoff, David V., Madison: A History of the Formative Years, Dubuque, 1982.
7. Park, William J., History of Madison, Dane County and Surrounding Towns..., Madison, 1877.
8. Paul, Justus F. and Barbara, (Editors), The Badger State: A Documentary History of Wisconsin, Grand Rapids, Michigan, 1979.
9. Pelzer, Louis, Henry Dodge, Iowa City, 1911.
10. Shambaugh, Benjamin F., The Old Stone Capitol Remembers, Iowa City, 1939.
11. Smith, Alice E., James Duane Doty: Frontier Promoter, Madison, Wisconsin, 1954.
12. Smith, Alice E., The History of Wisconsin: Vol. I From Exploration to Statehood, Madison, 1973.
13. Smith, Rudolf, Observations on the Wisconsin Territory; Chiefly on
That Part Called the "Wisconsin Land District", Philadelphia, 1838.
14. State Historical Society of Wisconsin, Dictionary of Wisconsin Biography, Madison, 1960.
15. Strong, Moses, History of the Territory of Wisconsin from 1836 to 1848, Madison, 1885.
16. Thwaites, Reuben Gold, The Story of Madison, 1836-1900, Madison, 1902.
17. Wright, Olgivanna Lloyd, Frank Lloyd Wright: His Life, His Work, His Words, New York, 1966.
Articles and Pamphlets:
1. "Facts Concerning the Capitol Fire." Report found in the Wisconsin Legislative Reference Bureau [1905].
2. "The Burning of the Capitol", The Wisconsin State Employee (October
1949). Word-for-word copy of a February 1948 Wisconsin Historical News
release.
3. "The Work of the Wisconsin Capitol Commission," Milwaukee Journal, Milwaukee (1905).
4. Child, Ebenezer, "Recollections of Wisconsin Since 1820", Wisconsin Historical Collections, vol. IV (1859).
5. Christy, Steve, series on Madison landscape architecture for the Capital Times (June 7-9, 1977).
6. Holzhueter, John O., "The Capitol Fence of 1872: A Footnote to
Wisconsin Architectural History", Wisconsin Magazine of History, vol.
LIII (Summer 1970).
7. Lass, William E., "Belmont", Wisconsin Magazine of History, vol. XL (Spring 1957).
8. Lathrop, H.W., "The Capital and Capitols of Iowa", Iowa Historical Record, vol. V (July 1888).
9. Lippert, David J., "Wisconsin's Capitol", The Wisconsin State Employee (July 1948).
10. Palmer, Strange M., "Western Wisconsin in 1836", Wisconsin Historical Collections, vol. VI (1872).
11. Salter, William, "Henry Dodge", Iowa Historical Record VIII (July 1892).
12. Salter, William, (Editor), "Letters of Henry Dodge to Gen. George
W. Jones", Annals of Iowa, 3rd Series, vol. III (1897-1899).
13. (Smith, William R.), "The Journal of William R. Smith", Wisconsin
Magazine of History, vol. XII (December 1928 - March 1929).
14. Stoler, Lois, "August Kutzbock, Early Madison Architect", Journal of Historic Madison, vol. I (1975).
15. Taylor, Hawkins, "Before and After the Territorial Organization of
Iowa", Annals of Iowa, 1st Series, vol. IX (January 1871).
16. Thwaites, Reuben Gold, "Executive Committee Report", Proceedings of
the State Historical Society of Wisconsin (1906). 17. Wisconsin
Department of Natural Resources, "Wisconsin First Capitol State Park",
Pub. No. 7-2500 (75).
18. Wisconsin Legislative Reference Library, "Old Capitol at Belmont:
Brief Statement Describing the First Wisconsin State [sic] Capitol"
(June 1921).
19. Wisconsin Legislative Reference Library, "Digest of Laws Relating
to the Construction of the Present Wisconsin State Capitol and the
State Office Building" (August 1923; Revised: July 1942, October 1943,
October 1945).
20. Wisconsin Legislative Reference Library, "Early Wisconsin State Capitol Buildings; Miscellaneous Notes" (February 1946).
21. Wisconsin Legislative Reference Library, "State Capitol Building Commission" (April 1946).
22. Wisconsin Then and Now, Issue on Belmont Capitol Restoration (June 1955).
23. Wisconsin Then and Now, Issue on 1904 Fire (February 1974).
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Note: The Wisconsin Blue Book
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